Exploring Antigua: Shirley Heights to Nelson’s Dockyard

Antigua wasn’t high on my radar the first time I cruised into St. John’s, but it ended up leaving a lasting impression. I’ve now stopped twice on Caribbean cruises, once in April 2018 and again in May 2024, and both times the island gave me something new to appreciate. With its postcard-perfect beaches, sweeping hilltop views, and a deep colonial history centered around Nelson’s Dockyard, it’s the kind of place that stays with you long after you sail away.

Back in 2018, I signed up for a ship excursion that checked off a handful of Antigua’s scenic and historic highlights. We started at Turner’s Beach, a peaceful strip of soft sand lined with palms and gentle surf. Then it was up into the hills to Shirley Heights, easily one of the best viewpoints in the entire Caribbean. From the lookout, I gazed across English Harbour, dotted with sleek white yachts and hugged by rugged hills rolling into turquoise water. It’s the kind of view that makes you pause, quiet, expansive, and oddly grounding.

One unexpected highlight was the Dow’s Hill Interpretation Centre. It’s not flashy, but inside are layered exhibits and dioramas that walk through Antigua’s history, from early colonization to its role in British naval strategy. Visiting it gave context to the nearby ruins and added depth to my time at Nelson’s Dockyard, which was our final stop.

When I returned in 2024, I opted for a similar itinerary, but this time I lingered longer at Nelson’s Dockyard. The site is part museum, part marina, with restored 18th-century buildings and working boatyards that still support the sailing crowd. I wandered around the old stone structures, peeked inside artisan shops, and found a shady spot by the water just as a rainbow stretched across the sky. It felt quietly magical.

Antigua balances natural beauty with cultural depth in a way that’s rare among cruise ports. If you’re planning a stop in St. John’s, whether it’s your first time or a return trip like mine, give yourself the time to explore beyond the beaches. You’ll come away with more than just pretty pictures, you’ll leave with a sense of place.