Bergen in Two Seasons: Christmas Markets and Mount Fløyen Views

Bright yellow Bergen sign on a cliff face

The air smelled like melted cheese and pine trees, and the glow of market lights reflected off the snow as I stepped into the holiday crowds. Arriving in Bergen by cruise had brought me back to a city I had first experienced during a winter visit just before Christmas. Wooden stalls lined the square near the lake, a ferris wheel spun slowly above the trees, and the cold Norwegian night made every warm bite of raclette-covered sausage feel like comfort food.

Bergen (Bergen – Pronounced [BEHR-gen]) sits along Norway’s rugged western coast surrounded by mountains and fjords. The city’s colorful harbor and wooden architecture make it one of the most recognizable destinations in the country. Seeing it first during the quiet glow of winter and later under bright summer skies gave me two completely different first impressions of the same place.

My winter visit in 2023 began with meeting friends I had met earlier on a cruise. The Christmas market became the heart of that trip. Handmade crafts filled the stalls and the ferris wheel reflected off the frozen water nearby. I wandered through the harbor the next day, passing the busy fish market before exploring the narrow wooden alleyways of Bryggen where small shops and historic buildings create a living piece of the past.

When I returned in June 2025 on another cruise, Bergen felt like an entirely new city. One of my friends met me at the port and we rode the Fløibanen funicular up to Mount Fløyen. From the overlook the harbor and cruise ships stretched out below us while the surrounding mountains framed the city. We followed a small forest trail called Trollskogen where carved trolls hide among the trees. After the walk we returned to the harbor for ice cream and wandered the same streets that had been snowy during my first visit.

Bergen’s history stretches back centuries as a key trading port of the Hanseatic League, which helped shape the famous Bryggen waterfront that still stands today. The city has long been a gateway to Norway’s fjords and remains one of the most visited cruise destinations in the country. Whether you arrive in winter snow or summer sunshine, Bergen blends maritime heritage with dramatic natural scenery in a way that makes every visit feel unique.

If You Have More Time…

  • KODE Art Museums – A group of galleries with everything from Edvard Munch to modern design, set in historic city buildings.
  • Bergenhus Fortress – This stone stronghold near the harbor is one of the oldest fortresses in Norway and offers scenic views.
  • Old Bergen Museum – Step into reconstructed wooden homes and cobbled streets that recreate 18th century Bergen life.
  • Fantoft Stave Church – A stunning example of traditional Norwegian wooden architecture rebuilt after a fire in the 1990s.
  • Fjord Cruise to Mostraumen – Take a boat tour to see narrow fjords, cascading waterfalls, and steep cliffs just beyond the city.