Martinique

Martinique: Rumbles of the Past and the Sweetness of Rum

My return to Martinique in 2024 brought a fresh appreciation for how much history and natural beauty is tucked into this little Caribbean gem. The first time I visited was back in 2018, but this time I went deeper than just walking around the port. I signed up for a panoramic island excursion that gave a fuller taste of what this volcanic island has to offer.

One of the most moving stops was the Mémorial de la catastrophe de 1902 in Saint-Pierre. The town, once dubbed the “Paris of the Caribbean,” was wiped out when Mount Pelée erupted with almost no warning, killing nearly all of its 30,000 residents. The memorial museum includes artifacts recovered from the destruction, with photos and stories that really drive home the scale of what happened.

From there, we drove through lush, winding roads up into the hills to visit the Sacré-Coeur de Balata, a church modeled after the famous Sacré-Coeur in Paris. Its perch above Fort-de-France gives a beautiful view of the city and coastline below, and the interior has a quiet, weathered charm that feels like it holds stories of its own.

Next up was Distillerie Depaz, one of Martinique’s historic rum distilleries. The grounds were beautiful, with flowering bushes, old machinery, and views of Mount Pelée rising in the distance. I got to learn about how sugarcane is processed and how the distillation methods differ from other Caribbean islands. The tasting room had several varieties to sample, and while I’m not a big drinker, it was fascinating to compare how age and storage methods affected the flavor.

Each stop offered something different: reflection, scenery, and flavor. And all of it framed by that vibrant Martinique green you only find in volcanic soil near the sea.

If You Have More Time…

  • Jardin de Balata: A tropical garden filled with exotic plants, hummingbirds, and hanging bridges through the canopy.
  • Fort Saint-Louis: A well-preserved fort in Fort-de-France with guided tours and sea views.
  • Anse Mitan Beach: Located in Trois-Îlets, a great spot for swimming or catching a catamaran to see the coast.
  • La Savane des Esclaves: An open-air museum exploring Martinique’s pre- and post-colonial history and culture.
  • Gorges de la Falaise: A short but rewarding hike through river gorges near Ajoupa-Bouillon, ending in a waterfall.