Alta, Norway: Northern Lights and Coastal Calm Above the Arctic Circle

Tucked away above the Arctic Circle, Alta, Norway, offers more than just a glimpse of the northern lights. My first visit in autumn 2023 was part of a cruise aptly named Search for the Northern Lights and included an overnight stay just off Alta’s calm shores. The lights made a shy but welcome appearance that evening, stretching across the sky in delicate green ribbons. It felt like nature’s subtle way of rewarding those who braved the chill.

I had booked the “Highlights of Alta” excursion, and it really did cover the essentials. We started at the striking Northern Lights Cathedral, whose modern spiral design makes it look part sculpture, part spaceship. Inside, a powerful bronze sculpture greets you at the altar, arms extended in a pose that somehow feels both reverent and raw. The cathedral also screens a short but immersive film about the aurora borealis that I found surprisingly moving.

Next up was Alta Church, a wooden structure dating back to the 1850s. It’s one of the few buildings in the region that wasn’t burned to the ground during the German retreat at the end of WWII in 1944. Its survival lends it an even more powerful energy, especially walking through its hillside cemetery, where birch trees sway gently over rows of simple gravestones. We ended the tour at Alta Museum & Rock Art Centre (Hjemmeluft), home to ancient petroglyphs that offer a peek into Norway’s prehistoric past.

When I returned in June 2025, I decided to skip the guided tour and simply explore. With a friend in tow, we retraced many of the same steps: the cathedral again, the church again, but this time walking through the cemetery at a slower pace, just soaking in the quiet beauty of it all. We skipped the museum, it would have been an hour’s walk, but ended up at a marked viewpoint called Båthavna Skaialuft. It’s a humble little spot down a gravel road that opens up to a wide view of the fjord. While we were there, we spotted some marine life splashing about. At first we thought it might be orcas, but they turned out to be Dall’s porpoises, a smaller species known for their playful speed and sudden movements. Orcas can be found in these waters too, just not typically in the summer months.

On the way back into town, we stoped at Uno Café and I was able to get the classic Norwegian delicacy: a heart-shaped waffle topped with strawberry jam, a dollop of cream, and slices of brown cheese. It’s sweet, salty, and unexpectedly satisfying, definitely something I’ll order again and again. I also tried to grab something from the world’s northernmost Subway restaurant, but found it closed. Alta’s like that. A place where what you plan might not go as expected, but what you find off the beaten path often feels more rewarding.