Riding Through Rain and Trolls: A Summer Solstice in Åndalsnes

Tucked between dramatic peaks and mirrored fjords, Åndalsnes is one of those ports that feels like a secret. Located at the mouth of the Rauma River in Norway’s Romsdal region, this scenic town is often used as a gateway to the towering Trollveggen cliffs and the famous Rauma Railway. I arrived by cruise ship in June, during the heart of Pride Month and just in time for the summer solstice. No excursions booked, just my camera, good shoes, and a full day to wander. Sometimes that’s the best way to meet a place.

The first thing that stood out was how green everything was. Every road seemed to curve into the hills or end in a dramatic mountain view. Even under a moody sky, the town had an easy charm, with rainbow flags fluttering in the breeze and colorful shops dotting the waterfront. It was impossible not to smile.

One of the first places I came across was a repurposed red train car just off the port. It’s now a small chapel, with comfy seating, stained glass, and the kind of peaceful silence that makes you want to pause for a second. Right next to it is the Åndalsnes train station, where you can hop on the Golden Train and ride deep into the Romsdalen valley. I didn’t ride it this time, but the photos and word-of-mouth promise sweeping views and curving tracks that cling to cliffs.

Instead, I opted for the Romsdalsgondolen. The base station is just steps from the cruise terminal, and the ride up to Nesaksla takes less than five minutes. It started off promising with glimpses of blue sky, but as we reached the top, a thick wall of fog swept in and it started raining. I waited around for about half an hour hoping it would lift, but eventually gave in and descended back down. Still, even the moody weather added something to the experience. This far north, everything feels raw and real.

By late afternoon, the clouds began to break. Our ship pulled away from port just as the sun started shining again, and it stayed visible well into the night. Being so close to the Arctic Circle, the sun barely dipped below the horizon. That golden glow followed us into the fjord for hours, a quiet farewell from a town that doesn’t need perfect weather to leave a mark.