Bergen

Bright yellow Bergen sign on a cliff face

Bergen Twice Over: Christmas Markets and Summer Trolls

Bergen has a way of staying with you. I first visited just before Christmas in 2023 and returned again in summer 2025. Two totally different vibes but both equally memorable. On my first trip, I flew in to meet up with friends I’d made on a cruise earlier that year. The city was dressed for the season with snow on the ground and a festive Christmas market tucked just behind the main lake near Lille Lungegårdsvannet. It felt like stepping into a snow globe. The market was full of cozy charm with handmade goods, lights everywhere, and food stalls pumping out the kind of comfort food that sticks with you. I had the sausage and raclette three times. Zero regrets.

The next day I explored Bergen’s harbor area, weaving through the fish market and into the old wooden buildings of Bryggen. It’s the kind of place that’s rich with stories, and it still has the feel of a working port with plenty of historic weight behind it.

Fast forward to June 2025 and I was back in Bergen again, this time arriving by cruise. One of my friends from that first trip came to meet me and we made our way up Mount Fløyen by funicular. Even though I had seen the city before, the views from the top still hit hard. We wandered into Trollskogen, a short forest trail with quirky and expressive troll carvings that I hadn’t heard about before. It felt like stepping into a Norwegian fairy tale. After heading back down, we explored the same city streets I had walked in the winter, only now under a blue sky with a few short showers.

What struck me most was how different the city felt between seasons. Same buildings, same streets, but a totally new experience. Bergen’s charm isn’t just in the landmarks, it’s in the atmosphere, the way light hits the harbor, and how the weather shapes your day.

If You Have More Time…

  • Ride the Fløibanen funicular again at sunset for an incredible view
  • Visit the Bergenhus Fortress and learn about the city’s role in Norway’s maritime history
  • Stop by the KODE Art Museums for local and international collections
  • Take a fjord cruise from the harbor to explore Norway’s dramatic coastline
  • Spend time exploring the narrow alleys and shops within Bryggen’s wooden buildings
  • Try the local seafood at the Torget fish market for a more immersive taste of Bergen