Grundarfjordur

Grundarfjordur might not be one of Iceland’s biggest ports, but it’s definitely one of the most memorable. Nestled along the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and backed by dramatic mountains and sea views, this quiet little fishing village has become one of my favorite unplanned stops in Iceland. I’ve now visited three times, once each summer, and each time offered something a little different.

In 2023, I took the town shuttle to Kirkjufellsfossar. The falls themselves are beautiful, but it’s the whole scene, the jagged green cliffs, the famously photogenic Kirkjufell mountain, and the soft mist clinging to everything, that really made the experience. I hiked back instead of riding the shuttle again, taking my time soaking in the views and sidestepping a few aggressive birds who clearly weren’t fans of tourists. Along the trail there’s a horse stable, and occasionally you’ll spot riders trotting along the same paths. It’s a nice touch to the landscape unless you’re dodging a fresh reminder of their visit underfoot.

Turns out, those stealthy little divebombers are Eurasian Oystercatchers. They’re sharply dressed in black and white with bright orange beaks, and they’re fiercely protective during nesting season. What makes them especially sneaky is that they don’t swoop in head-on. Instead, they ambush you from behind, gliding just over your shoulder before diving at your head, again and again, until you’ve cleared what they apparently consider their front lawn. One of them was pacing along the rocky beach carrying a stick like it was on a mission, giving serious side-eye to anything that came too close.

In 2024, I switched it up with a small group excursion out to some nearby towns. We stopped in Helgafell for some panoramic views and got to see Icelandic horses with foals grazing in the fields. Then we headed into Stykkishólmur to stroll around the charming buildings and quirky architecture like the futuristic-looking Stykkishólmskirkja church. The highlight, or maybe lowlight depending on your nose, was the Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum. I tried a cube of fermented shark washed down with schnapps. I also saw where they hang and dry the meat. That shed smelled like regret. The surrounding lava fields, though, were incredible. All jagged rock and moss with volcanoes dotting the horizon.

In 2025, I decided to skip the group tours again and go exploring solo. This time I looked up Grundarfoss, another nearby waterfall, and set off on foot. I didn’t make it all the way up close, but honestly the view from a distance was probably better anyway. The falls were tall and narrow and looked great framed against the mountain range. On the way back to Kirkjufellsfossar, I got dive-bombed again by birds. They must have recognized me.

Even after three visits, Grundarfjordur still has a pull to it. Sometimes the best stops are the ones where you just wander.