Hiking Around Grundarfjordur: Kirkjufell Views, Fermented Shark, and Divebomb Birds

Grundarfjordur might be a small fishing village along Iceland’s Snæfellsnes Peninsula, but it keeps pulling me back. I’ve now visited three summers in a row, and somehow each trip has been completely different, even without booking a single shore excursion ahead of time. Nestled between jagged mountains and calm seas, it’s the kind of place where you can wander with no agenda and still end up with some of the best photos from your trip.

In 2023, I took the town shuttle out to Kirkjufellsfossar. Iceland may have waterfalls around every corner, but this one earns its hype. With Kirkjufell mountain standing tall in the background and the landscape blanketed in soft mist, it’s a postcard scene even if you’re not a photographer. I hiked back to town instead of riding the shuttle again, dodging a few territorial birds along the way and passing by a horse stable where local riders sometimes take the same trail. It’s all very scenic, just watch where you step.

As for those birds? Meet the Eurasian Oystercatcher. They’re sharply dressed in black and white with orange bills, but don’t let the formalwear fool you. During nesting season, they go full security patrol, especially if you wander too close to the grassy shoreline. They don’t come at you head-on either. These guys sneak up from behind and repeatedly dive at your head until you’ve cleared their invisible property line. One of them followed me along the beach, dragging a stick like it had beef to settle.

The 2024 visit was more structured. I joined a small-group tour that stopped in Helgafell, where I spotted Icelandic horses with foals grazing in the fields. Then it was on to Stykkishólmur, a small town known for its quirky architecture and dramatic coastal views. I wandered around the ultra-modern Stykkishólmskirkja church and eventually ended up at the Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum. There, I sampled Iceland’s infamous fermented shark, chased with a shot of schnapps. The taste was something you simply need to experience for yourself. The shed where they dry it? That smell will live in my sinuses for a while.

By 2025, I was back to solo wandering. I spotted a second waterfall, Grundarfoss, on the map and decided to check it out. It’s within walking distance from town, just in the opposite direction from Kirkjufell. I didn’t hike all the way to the base, but from a distance the view was still dramatic—a thin ribbon of water cutting down the cliffs. The oystercatchers were still there too, still mad. On my way back, I passed Kirkjufellsfossar one more time for another round of photos. Same waterfall, different light. Still worth the stop.

Even after three visits, I’m still not done with Grundarfjordur. It’s a walkable, low-key stop that manages to feel fresh every time. Just keep an eye on the skies.