Exploring Keelung: Hot Springs, Steam Vents, and Yehliu's Alien Coast

Sailing into Keelung cruise port gave me my first glimpse of Taiwan’s northern coast. Keelung (基隆 – Pronounced [Jī-lóng]) has long served as one of the country’s busiest ports and an essential gateway to Taipei. Backed by misty green mountains and fronted by rugged coastal views, this bustling harbor has a distinctly industrial vibe, but its surroundings are anything but.

Originally developed during the Qing Dynasty and expanded under Japanese rule, Keelung has evolved into a thriving port city with strong ties to Taiwan’s maritime and military history. While the city itself can feel hectic, the nearby natural landscapes offer a calm and scenic contrast.

With just one day in port, I opted for a ship-organized excursion that gave me a taste of northern Taiwan’s geothermal wonders, tranquil spa culture, and some of the most unique geological formations I’ve ever seen.

Our first stop was the Xiaoyoukeng Recreation Area, high in the Yangmingshan mountains. This volcanic site is part of Yangmingshan National Park and is famous for its steaming vents, sulfur deposits, and boiling mud pots. As we approached, the scent of sulfur filled the air and wisps of steam curled across the trail like ghostly ribbons. It felt like walking through the Earth’s natural pressure release valve.

We continued to the Yangmingshan Tien-Lai Resort & Spa for a half-day soak in the mountain air. I chose not to photograph the pools out of respect for other guests, but the serenity was memorable. I did capture a lovely fountain on the property with carved stone fish spouting arcs of water into a clear blue pool. The peaceful garden surroundings made for a nice reset between stops.

The final destination was Yehliu Geopark, where the coastline has been sculpted by wind and sea into fantastical shapes. The rock formations here look otherworldly, especially the iconic “Queen’s Head.” I wandered the park’s trails taking in the sculpted landscape and sea views. One surprise along the drive back was seeing a local riding his scooter with a golden retriever sitting upright between his legs like a co-pilot. A lighthearted end to a dynamic day.