Naha

Naha is the capital of Okinawa Prefecture and serves as the main gateway to Japan’s southernmost islands. Unlike many other ports in mainland Japan, Naha feels distinctly different, with strong Ryukyuan roots, subtropical climate, and a more relaxed, almost island-time pace. The city was once the heart of the Ryukyu Kingdom, which had its own culture, language, and trade routes before being annexed by Japan in the late 19th century. While much of the area was devastated during World War II, it’s slowly been rebuilt with a fascinating blend of old traditions and modern quirkiness.

On this visit, I spent the day walking through some of Naha’s better-known spots and a few that felt refreshingly odd in the best way. I began at Shurijo Castle Park to see the remains of what was once the Ryukyu royal palace. It’s still under reconstruction after the devastating 2019 fire, and likely will be for years to come, but it’s still worth the visit for the views and the layered history of the site. The original pathways and gates remain intact, and there’s something oddly peaceful about watching it slowly being brought back to life.

From there I made my way through the maze of shopping streets along Kokusai Dori. There’s no shortage of souvenir stands, cafés, and snack shops vying for attention, and it’s easy to get caught up in the sensory overload. I stopped to try some Blue Seal ice cream, which seems to be a local favorite. Their flavors lean into Okinawan ingredients, and it was a nice way to take a break and cool down.

Later in the day, I visited Fukushūen Garden, a quiet oasis with Chinese-style pavilions, koi ponds, and lush landscaping. It’s easy to miss if you’re rushing around, but stepping inside feels like entering another world. I also took a little time to unwind at Nekomaru Chaya, a small and charming cat café that was just the kind of offbeat detour I enjoy.

Before heading back, I passed by the Naha Giant Tug-Of-War Display, which was honestly more interesting than I expected. The rope is massive, and seeing it in person helps you appreciate the scale of the annual event. And of course, I made sure to swing by and snap a picture with my favorite statue, Tsuboya Ufu Shisa. I don’t know what it is about that particular one, but it always makes me smile.

Naha isn’t flashy, and it’s not trying to be. But it’s layered with personality, from royal ruins and tropical gardens to cats, quirky statues, and ice cream. You just have to let it unfold around you.