Tromsø Twice: Snow Dogs, Summer Trolls, and Northern Finds
Sailing into the Tromsø cruise port, you’re immediately greeted by the dramatic contrast of sea and snow-capped mountains. Tromsø (Tromsø – Pronounced [TROOM-suh]) sits well above the Arctic Circle and is often called the “Gateway to the Arctic.”
Though it’s known as one of the best places to catch the northern lights in winter, Tromsø has something to offer year-round. From its deep Sami heritage to its role in Arctic exploration, the city has a mix of culture, nature, and quirky modernity that makes it stand out from other Norwegian ports.
On two separate visits—one in the frosty autumn of 2023 and another during the endless light of summer in 2025—I explored very different sides of this Arctic capital.
My first trip to Tromsø in October 2023 was like stepping into another world. After a scenic ride through the snow-covered countryside, I arrived in Breivikeidet for a visit to a dog sled camp. Over a hundred eager huskies greeted our group with wagging tails and boundless energy. These working dogs stay socialized through regular visits, and it showed—they were playful and friendly, with a few curious puppies stealing the spotlight. The amount of snow on the ground caught me off guard, considering we were still in early autumn.
Back in town, I wandered Tromsø’s walkable streets and stumbled into the Troll Museum. It was a delightful surprise. Interactive exhibits and folk tales made it easy to spend time getting lost in the world of Norwegian mythology. Trolls popped up throughout the city in sculptures, shops, and even wall art. The quirky vibe gave Tromsø a playful edge that stuck with me.
When I returned in June 2025, I opted for another casual walkabout. The sun was shining, and the snowcapped mountains were now framed by blooming green hills. I passed by familiar streets, took a detour through quiet neighborhoods off the tourist track, and paid a quick visit to the northernmost McDonald’s and 7-Eleven—just to say I had. Along the harbor, I browsed the shops with friends, picked up souvenirs at the Sami Shop to support local artisans, and went on an informal troll hunt spotting carvings and statues tucked in corners. It may not have been an adrenaline-fueled day, but it was the perfect way to unwind and absorb the Arctic summer vibe.
If You Have More Time…
- Fjellheisen Cable Car – Ride to the top of Mount Storsteinen for sweeping views over the city and surrounding fjords. Sunset up here is unforgettable.
- Polaria Arctic Experience Center – A great stop to learn about polar wildlife with panoramic films and an aquarium featuring bearded seals.
- Arctic Cathedral (Ishavskatedralen) – A striking architectural landmark visible from the harbor. Step inside for peaceful interiors and stained glass.
- Northern Lights Planetarium – If you visit outside aurora season, this indoor dome show gives you a taste of what the real thing looks like.
- Tromsø Bridge Walk – Take a scenic stroll across the iconic bridge that links the mainland with Tromsøya island. Views in both directions are worth it.