Three Summers in Grundarfjordur, Iceland

Sailing into Grundarfjordur cruise port felt like arriving at the edge of a painting. Towering cliffs, still fjord waters, and the unmistakable shape of Kirkjufell greeted us before we even stepped ashore.

Grundarfjordur (Grundarfjörður – Pronounced [GRUN-dar-fyur-thur]) is a small town on Iceland’s Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Historically a fishing hub, it has evolved into a low-key destination for cruise visitors looking to explore Icelandic nature without the big-city crowds.

Its size makes it ideal for slow travel. You can walk to a waterfall in one direction, find volcanic lava fields in another, or sample fermented shark just a short drive away.

I’ve now visited Grundarfjordur three summers in a row, each time by cruise and each time without booking any formal excursions. In 2023, I took the town shuttle out to Kirkjufellsfossar, then hiked back through rolling fields with horses grazing and seabirds divebombing overhead. The Eurasian Oystercatchers in particular are fiercely territorial. They fly silently behind you, then swoop at your head until you’ve cleared their invisible boundary. The walk itself was scenic and peaceful when they weren’t on patrol.

The following summer, I joined a small group tour that visited nearby towns like Helgafell and Stykkishólmur. We stopped for panoramic views and visited the modern Stykkishólmskirkja church. The day ended at the Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum where I tried fermented shark with schnapps. The shark itself was manageable. The shed where it’s dried? That’s a smell I won’t forget anytime soon.

In 2025, I wandered in the opposite direction to find Grundarfoss. The trail was quiet but filled with the same aggressive birds from my first visit. I didn’t get close to the falls, but the view from a distance was just as impressive. I circled back to Kirkjufellsfossar again, and even after three visits, it was still worth the detour.