Coffee Hills and Painted Wheels of Puntarenas

Sailing into Puntarenas (Spanish – Pronounced [poon-tah-ray-nahs]) felt like stepping into the heart of Costa Rica’s Pacific coast. Once a key port for coffee exports, this narrow peninsula city still hums with the energy of local life, fishing boats, and the occasional cruise ship docking for the day.

Puntarenas offers an authentic glimpse into Costa Rican culture beyond the resort towns, here, life moves to the rhythm of ocean waves and the aroma of freshly roasted coffee. Between its palm-lined beaches and hillside villages, the region bridges Costa Rica’s maritime heritage with its agricultural roots.

Even before disembarking, I could sense that Puntarenas was a place best appreciated slowly, whether through a guided tour of its coffee co-ops or a quiet walk along the shoreline where iguanas, crabs, and the occasional cat share the rocks.

My first visit to Puntarenas was part of a coast-to-coast voyage through the Panama Canal, and I chose an excursion that blended nature and craft. The day began in the lush hills at the Espíritu Santo Coffee Tour, a co-op where dozens of small farmers work together to produce Costa Rica’s renowned beans. Even though it was just past harvest season, the tour showcased the intricate process from plant to cup. The guide demonstrated roasting and brewing, and one sip of their drip coffee was enough to convince me to buy a few bags to take home.

Next came the Fabrica de Carretas Eloy Alfaro, or Eloy Alfaro Oxcart Factory. Before this visit, I had no idea how symbolic the oxcart was to Costa Rican history. Each cart is hand-painted in vivid colors and geometric designs that reflect both pride and tradition. Watching artisans at work made me appreciate the hours of patience and precision behind every wheel. We ended the tour with fresh fruit platters of banana, pineapple, and watermelon before returning through the green mountain roads to the ship.

When I returned to Puntarenas years later, I skipped the excursions to wander the port itself. Across from the pier, a pavilion buzzed with local artists selling handmade crafts, paintings, and wood carvings. The beach was alive with locals enjoying the sun, and I followed the waterfront path lined with palms toward El Faro de Puntarenas, the lighthouse at the peninsula’s tip. Along the rocky seawall, iguanas basked in the heat while crabs scuttled across the stones, and to my surprise, a cat had claimed the rocks as its home. It was the perfect example of Puntarenas life: calm, colorful, and quietly charming.