Two Days in Hong Kong: Night Markets, Neon Streets, and Temple Smoke

I flew into Hong Kong the night before boarding the NCL Spirit, just enough time to get a first impression of a city that doesn’t hold back. My hotel for the night was Hotel Stage in Yau Ma Tei, a quiet and modern spot tucked into one of Kowloon’s more local-feeling neighborhoods. After checking in, I grabbed my camera and set off for a solo walk to stretch my legs and see what the city looked like after dark.

The streets around me were alive with texture. Neon signs flickered on as market stalls started closing down. Bamboo scaffolding wrapped itself around high-rise buildings like it was growing there. Even without knowing where I was headed, it felt like the city was constantly offering something—an alley, a shrine, a cat, a food cart. Later that night, I met up with a local friend who brought me to Central, where the shopping streets were glowing with oversized Christmas decorations. We hopped on a double-decker tram and rode up top, the wind cutting through the warmth as we coasted through the lights.

The next day, after boarding the ship, I had time for a shore excursion that showed off a quieter side of Hong Kong. We started at Tai Fu Tai Mansion, a beautifully preserved Qing Dynasty home with carved details and peaceful courtyards. From there, we visited Man Mo Temple, where the air hung heavy with incense and history. Our final stop was Tai Po, where the markets felt raw and real—produce piled high, temple rooftops peeking through the city noise, and the kind of energy that comes from people going about their daily lives.

In just two days, I got a sense of the city’s rhythm. Modern but rooted. Fast but reflective. It’s not an easy place to sum up, but it makes an impression fast.