Jungle Trails and Twin Falls: Hiking Dominica’s Trafalgar Falls

Arriving in Dominica by cruise always feels like dropping into a different rhythm. Known as the Nature Island of the Caribbean, it’s the kind of place where the wild feels just a little wilder and the green somehow looks greener. I first visited in April 2018, but this return trip in May 2024 gave me the chance to reconnect with the island in a new way.

This time, I booked a shore excursion to Trafalgar Falls, one of Dominica’s most iconic natural sites. The drive from the port in Roseau took us through winding mountain roads and gave us glimpses of the coast, hillside villages, and dense jungle valleys. Once we reached the trailhead, it was a short but dynamic hike with a mix of man-made staircases and natural paths.

The trail led us through thick rainforest, where the sound of birds and buzzing insects was constant and comforting. When we reached the wooden viewing platform, I was rewarded with a view of the twin waterfalls known as “Papa” and “Mama.” Papa roars down the cliff in a dramatic cascade, while Mama flows more gently beside it. It was beautiful from the main overlook, but the best moments were when I could slip off to quieter spots along the trail to just breathe, listen, and take it all in without the background noise of a group.

On the drive back, we paused at a few scenic viewpoints that showed off just how rugged and undeveloped much of Dominica still is. That rawness is exactly what makes it special. While it’s easy to be wowed by the waterfalls, what really stuck with me was the walk through the forest and the feeling of stillness that’s hard to find anywhere else.